Thursday, October 29, 2009

The Storyteller's Daughter




It is hard to put into words the feelings I have watching events unfold in Pakistan and Afghanistan. As Pakistan descends into the pit of war and as Afghanistan continues to dig its pit yet deeper, my feelings of hopelessness over these places grows deeper.

Since my brother is still in Kabul, each piece of news is so very personal and real. We wait for news from him after each major attack. We wait and we pray.

I used to keep a piece of shrapnel and a shell (the kind used in war, not the kind found on beaches…) on my dresser so that I would never forget Afghanistan while it was at war. For a brief time, I put them away. The Taliban had fallen. Karzai was in power. Things were looking good. But those days are gone.

From the time we were forced to leave in ’79, it seems I have spent my life praying for and crying over Afghanistan. I was reluctant to ever love Pakistan because I always felt it was a place of waiting – to get back to Afghanistan. But then Pakistan, too, found its way into my heart.

I have just finished reading “The Storyteller’s Daughter” for the second time. I highly recommend it to all Americans to understand a bit more about the Afghan mentality from a mostly-western perspective. It is fabulously written and incredibly insightful. I know all the places the author talks about in the book. She was in Peshawar at the same time we were there in the late 80s. I can picture the people, places and events as if they were somehow real again.

And that is a problem I have. Sometimes my childhood seems so far away and wild that I am not sure I myself believe it.

Inspired by the book, I sat down with the girls last week and began telling them stories. I told them of how Afghanistan came to be in this sad state – its third war since 1979. First the Russians, then themselves, then two great towers fell and now my very own country is fighting my very own country. I told them of the wild Afghans and Pushtuns, firing guns up in the air for no apparent reason and swaggering around in their unkempt turbans and laughing at death itself.

I told them our family’s stories. Tales of traveling in the most beautiful place in the world – the Himalayan Mountains, of glacier crossings, boulders crashing in landslides, hiking for hours in monsoons, of being escorted into the fronteir by truckloads of soldiers, feeling the shudder of impact as bombs landed just over the border, frequent security threats, playing “Russians and Afghans” with my little friends, the day my father met the king of Afghanistan, of how he trained the current presidential hopeful, Abdullah Abdullah, in ophthalmology, of riding camels and the very top of trucks and roof racks, of my brothers pushing our cars up the mountains of Turkey, of water shortages (1/2 bucket bath a week), of raiding the boys by sneaking at night through a mile of woods whose tales of panther and snow leopard sightings kept our hearts beating wildly, of my brothers trying to get into Afghanistan by banding up with Mujahedeen, who, for one crazy night of stallion fighting kept their horses in our backyard, of my brothers crossing mountain passes into the interior of Afghanistan, of listening to monkeys roll down our roof which they used as a slide, of riding down the Kabul Gorge on bikes, of watching the wildly wonderful horseback game of buskashi – racing to get out of the way as the horses stampeded in our direction, of very reluctantly sitting on a camel for our family's Christmas picture (above), of seeing the rise of the red flags of communism, of the hundreds of people that came to our door for food and soap handed out by my mother, of the weight my father bore treating thousands of the war-wounded, of walking through refugee camps whose inhabitants endured unimaginable horrors and who now struggled to survive in the blazing heat or freezing cold, of amazing hospitality and generosity … and sneaking to the border of Afghanistan through tribal territory, fully veiled, just to catch a glimpse of my beloved country.

Did all that really happen? Or am I just imagining it? It all seems so far away and hazy. The girls sit, spellbound – their food not even reaching their mouths.

They don’t ever want to visit. It all seems too scary. How can I explain to them the pull of these places… the incredible love for the country of my birth? Just as in the book, Afghanistan and our lives there all seems like a myth - a fairytale of a place once beautiful and magical.
Someday I'll read them my father's book about all this and more - but in the meantime, they'll have to listen to me, the storyteller's daughter.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

September

Celebrating 10 years at Village of Hope - the Children's home near us. The children are raised by families instead of the classic-style orphanage. One family has 8 children, the other has 9. There are several other families just starting out who have one or two children. There are plenty of children, but not enough parents to go around because the commitment is so huge - 20 years in Morocco raising 8 children! Abir, who stayed with Ron and Laurie for a few years is at the front in the pink sweater. They are also trying to start a school on the grounds for the kids and the very impoverished community surrounding them. Their website is: http://www.voh-ainleuh.org/


There is a whole 'forest' of these cool rock formations near us that are really easy to climb.

In our guidebook, it describes "The Three Lakes Tour" with a picture of a completely dry lakebed. It goes on to helpfully tell you exactly where to go in order to see three dried-up depressing lakes. But we knew that with a lot of rain/snow last year, our chances were better. Besides, it's only 15 minutes away, so what could we lose? And this is what we found - beautiful! It's really amazing to see a country racked with drought transformed into a glimmer of what it used to be!

Further proof that there was, indeed, a lake - there were paddleboats! That's Melody, my niece, in the middle.

I stumbled across this cave the same day. Although the people in the surrounding area obviously knew it was there (there was evidence of a stable inside), we pretended we were the very first to discover it!

The girls were bursting with excitement - "We should live here...We should show all our friends...We should have church in here...I'm so excited I could scream...Can I scream, Mommy?!?" And on and on it went. Further excitement followed when we discovered there was another entrance to the cave - a tunnel that led to the surface through a skylight! Kids are so honest - if they know they should be happy about something but aren't - like a birthday present they didn't really want - they politely do a lousy acting job to make us happy. But when they truly are excited the result is so much fun!

Wednesday, October 07, 2009

My Sister


We are becoming involved in a situation here regarding a maid who is being mistreated. There is much to say about the subjet, but at this point, I cannot write it all. This is what my heart is saying.
My Sister

Your face is black
Your hair in tight knots
You come from beyond the Saharan sands
And yet,
You are my sister

Your English is labored
Your mother tongue so foreign to me
that I cannot understand one single word
And yet,
You are my sister

You are not allowed to worship with us
You sneak to my house to study the Bible and pray
You are starving for fellowship
You are hungry

You receive almost no pay for your labor
Day and night and day and night
You don’t even have money for soap
You have tears in your eyes

You are not permitted to contact your family far away
You cannot leave the grounds
You have no freedom
You are a slave

You are screamed at
Blamed
Shamed
Insulted
And I’m just around the corner from you,
My sister

And yet you love your charges
Hold them tenderly
Kiss their tears away
Speak gently to them –
How do you do it,
My sister?

You can’t go home
Your passport is in the possession of one who controls you
You have no money
But you are not without hope,
My sister
We will find a way
For you to fly home
To be free again

My sister

Friday, October 02, 2009

A feel-good story

Here are the girls with Asmaa, who has been a great help and babysitter to us. On this day, the girls decided to treat Asmaa to a 'feast' by dumping out many of the contents in the fridge and cupboards. I don't think Asmaa took one bite!

Asmaa was born with cataracts. Somewhere along the way, she got surgeries and sees much better, but her eyes were still constantly tearing up and painful. She was to have a surgery years ago, but her father was murdered in a robbery and their lives came to a standstill. Although she is not the oldest of the family she has become the breadwinner and is the one who holds her mother and four siblings together. She's an incredibly hard worker and is constantly helping others. But her siblings mostly just sit around, fail tests, and refuse work opportunities. The lack of initiate here sometimes is hard to understand - especially when the weight of all the work in the family lies on one small person's shoulders.

Last spring, Asmaa's eyes were getting worse and worse, but she was terrified to go see the doctor. Finally, after constant prodding from many people in her life, she went and Saturday had a minor operation clearing out her tear ducts. I saw her Monday when the operation had not yet taken effect. She cried saying, "I don't want to get married. I don't want to have kids. All I want is for my eyes to stop hurting all the time."

But today was a different story. She told me that she is, for the first time in a very long time, pain-free! No tears are streaking down her cheeks, she doesn't stop to rub her eyes constantly, and she has a smile on her face - yay!