Where's the tank?

“What is a tank?” The girls asked me as we discussed the events in Egypt. They didn’t know “coup” “revolution” or “curfew” either.

Wow. I knew all those words all too well by their age. There were several coups while we lived in Afghanistan and of course, the build-up to the soviet invasion which happened a few months after we left. The scenes of protest in Egypt look very familiar.

A few years after we left Afghanistan, when I was 10, my mom and I hiked up a hill to see a tank in Pakistan. We got to the top and I looked all around. I saw no tanks. Only a large pool full of water. “Where’s the tank?” I asked. That’s when Mom explained to me that there is more than one definition of tank.

When I told that story to Katrina, she said, “I only know the kind of tank with water.” And I’m glad that’s the only definition she knows.

I’ve always been reluctant to discuss news with the girls. Of course we tell them about events, but I want to protect them from all the horrible truths and the complicated issues. But over the last few days as we’ve had discussions about democracy, monarchy, dictatorships, revolutions and coups, I have come to realize that they are fascinated and they understand quite a bit. And I can still filter the news to them!

These events are close to us here. For one, we know several people who have lived in Egypt and two of the kids in the girls’ school just moved to Cairo. Protests in Algeria, a completely surprise revolution in Tunisia, an attempt at a revolution happening as I write in Egypt, protest in Yemen - the Arab world is angry. Angry at their leaders for being in power for 30+ years. Angry for not benefiting from oil money or aid. Angry about the treatment of the people.

It is interesting to note that most of countries in the Arab world are run by autocrats - including Morocco, run by one man, the king. I’m sure Morocco is nervous as events continue to unfold in North Africa. But we feel very little anger here. People are upset about food prices going up, but in general we hear a lot of support for the king - who is backed by a very strong military. It helps greatly that the king is a descendent of their prophet, Mohammad.

And there is always the fear througout the Arab world that after the revolution people desire, Islamists will come into power. It is partly this fear that has kept these autocrats in power. Better what the people know than something far worse.

Even though we feel very safe here, we live in the Arab world. And these events are happening just a few countries away. Will this be like Tiananmen Square (incredible that China has managed to block all news about Egypt to the Chinese) - or the Berlin Wall - or something else? We wait and we pray.

Up & Down

On New Year's, we went to the a little town on the coast called Essaouira. It is close to Morocco's most famous town, Marrakesh, so it has a lot of European tourists too. Visiting Marrakesh is quite an assault on the senses, so the tourists looked quite happy and relaxed afterwards in laid-back Essaouira! We saw more Europeans in the old city than Moroccans!

The city is famous for its high winds and we loved watching the parasurfers glide through the water for amazing distances! Yes, it was warm enough to swim - for the girls, that is! I stayed on the sand in the sun :)

The Portuguese were here briefly, but long enought to build forts and add plenty of cannons!
Gerald and I ate lots of seafood, but this is as close as the girls got to it! They are not seafood fans and see no reason to change. Seeing everything in the raw did not help! At this shop, we picked out what we wanted and they grilled it right there.

As is commonly in Morocco, we rented an apartment instead of a hotel room. We knew it had two bedrooms, but what we did not know is the layout. Packed into the old city with all the other ancient houses, we learned that the only way to build is straight up.

First floor: Staircase

Second floor: Girls' room

Third floor: Our room

Fourth floor: Kitchen & bathroom

Fifth floor: Living room

Sixth floor : Terrace (pictured)

We got dizzy just getting to the living room!

All these rooms were tiny, but there were plenty of stairs! The only thing you could do upon leaving any of the rooms was to go up or down. To go the bathroom in the night, the girls climbed two flights of stairs. We found ourselves constantly hollering into the general area of the staircase to another family member - "Where are you? Up or down?" We decided there is no way to gain weight in such a house. It took all four of us a long time and many calories to merely set the table on the terrace, two flights up from the kitchen. Then of course we forgot things and had to go back down. Then there was clearing the table which was another complicated operation. Up, down, up, down - what a life! Now I understand why the handicapped and elderly rarely leave their houses in the old city!

After a lovely time of involuntarily becoming more fit, we headed home ready for the new semester to start.

Christmas

Christmas dinner for expatriates who were still around at Christmas

We ended up with 25 people which was easy compared to Thanksgiving! I show this picture not because it's pretty but to show you a rarely photographed room of our house - the 'wust a dar' - middle of the house - simply an open hallway that most of the time we have no idea what to do with. But the girls love it and dance/play in here a lot. And it works great for big meals! Everyone voted to have a potluck in stead of a turkey (though of course we would have chosen a ham if that were an option!). So - for the record, I'm pushing 40 and have YET to make a turkey! I have thus far successfully mooched off of my mother, mother-in-law, siblings, and friends and have had to only make sides. This is probably not something I should be proud of. Maybe next year!

Friendship Club candy houses. It will take me a year to recover. Glitter the week before, icing at Christmas, paint this week. Am I crazy? Thankfully faithful Asma is here at that time and helps with the clean-up!

Our precious friend, Abby. It's a long story and if you don't remember it, you can write me and ask. Laurie has established such a good relationship with the orphanage in Meknes over the last 10 years, that they trusted her enough to take Abby out for a day. Suffice to say, it felt like a dream - a miracle - a gift - to see her this Christmas.

Gerald handed in grades December 22. He got sick December 23. This is pretty common for him after he runs himself ragged at the end of the semester. We missed him greatly during our Christmas Eve day together with my brother's family. Thankfully he had revived by Christmas.

These Friesens who have mostly lived in LA or low-land Morocco have rarely seen snow falling. Although there was snow at higher elevations where we went sledding Christmas Eve, we had none on the ground here in Ifrane in spite of my fervent prayers! BUT, on Christmas Day it fell for about half an hour. It was pure delight to see my nieces (and OK, me too) - running and screaming out into the first snowfall of the year. They danced and spun around in glee. What a wonderful Christmas gift!